In the last Module 2, you should have worked through the basic techniques and practiced tying the wooly bugger each day this week. How does it feel? Not perfect? Don’t worry, it doesn’t have to be perfect.
In fact, an imperfect fly is usually better. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve hammered fish on a fly that was thrashed. So, don’t be afraid to use the flies you just tied even if they don’t look great.
If you want a reminder about Module 2, just click here and you can get caught up.
You should also have ordered and received your materials for this week’s fly – The Pheasant Tail.
If you still have questions this week, you can connect with me directly here. Just let me know what you are struggling with.
Now we’re ready to jump into this weeks content.
We’ll be covering nymphs today and will be tying the pheasant tail nymph. We will also talk about different hooks, weighting flies, beads, look at the thread base and other nymph tying options.
Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Introduction to Module 3
Chapter 2: Understanding Hook Shape and Size
Chapter 3: Thread Base
Ch. 1 – Introduction to Module 3
Before we get into the next section I wanted to highlight a couple of items that I will cover below but not in super detail. Euro nymphing and the hooks and flies that go along with it include jig hooks.
Here’s a video that talks about using a jig hook and a great fly you can use to tie one:
As you can see in the video from Mcfly, you don’t have to tie a complex pattern to have a great fly.
Ch. 2 – Understanding hook shape and size
There’s a hook for just about every type of bug out there and then some. You can get as specialized as you would like. I discuss the different hooks in general and the details of the hook types and shapes we are using in this course.
As you start expanding outward with your fly tying you will eventually pick up new fly sizes and shapes. For this course, there are a few general hooks that will work for the flies we tie and a number of other types.
First let’s talk about general terminology. This link goes into the details of the terminology around the hook itself. Key items like the hooks eye, bend and barb are covered here. Review this page before moving on, but I want you to focus more on the type of hook you will be using.
The different patterns we use call for different hooks. Last week you tied a wooly bugger which used a streamer hook with a 3x long shank. Now you know that many streamer hooks have a larger x number. 3x being longer shanked than a 2x. The larger the x number, the longer the hook.
This week we are going to tie a pheasant tail nymph which used a shorter and more compact hook. These nymph hooks are often thicker and stronger as well. Adding extra wait to help the fly sink.
Dry fly hooks on the other hand, are very light hooks that are intended to float on the surface. These hooks typically have lighter wire hooks compared to the same size nymph hook.
Hook sizes are a little backwards as well. The larger the hook size number, the smaller the hook. So, a size 18 dry fly hook is smaller than a size 10 dry fly hook. We will be using sizes 6 through 16 for this course, but there are plenty of hooks in sizes 18 + that you may use for trout.
I’m not going to get into the names of the different hooks for this course but we will cover this in a subsequent course.
Ch. 3 – Thread Base
We talked about this briefly during the wooly bugger session, but I want to remind you about thread base. Thread base is just the base layer of thread that goes on the hook before you start adding any materials.
A thread base will help minimize chance that your materials will twist on you while you are tying.
It’s usually easiest to start at the hook eye when you put your thread on the hook the first time. Then just wrap back until you reach the back of the fly.
As you get more comfortable with materials this step will go faster. Here’s some additional information on thread size as you get into this step:
Weighting the Nymph
watch this video #4 before moving on:
Putting extra weight on a hook can be critical in some fishing situations. It depends on the depth and speed of water as well as other factors, and thinking about this as you approach the vise will be helpful.
I’m going to show you how to wrap weight onto your hook prior to tying a fly. this weight wil be in the form of lead wire which comes in different diameters and weights. It might come in the form as copper wire. It might come in the form as a bead head.
Here’s how you add weight in these few examples. There are times when you might only want to put one strip along the top of the fly. How do you know how much weight to use? You wont so make sure to have a mixture of sizes.
There is an additional technique called flattening the wire. Flattening the wire helps the bug look more similar to nature as many stoneflies and other insects are not completely round. You can imitate gills and other nature features after flattening the fly.
watch this video #5 before moving on:
Additional addons that you will likely use when tying nymphs include beads and flash. A bead can add weight to the fly or just give it a little extra something. Flash is just that little extra something.
Don’t be afraid to test it out but don’t use too much material. Sometimes just a little flash is all you need.
Here’s how to place a bead on a fly. Beads can be many different colors and gold isn’t always the best. Here’e a few different types of flash, but they all do the same thing. Add something to attract the fish and change things up a little.
watch this video #6 before moving on:
Adding flash to your fly can make the difference between catching a fish and getting skunked.
I’m not saying you should always put flash on your fly but you should always be testing.
This is one of the great things about tying your own flies. You can tie up 12 different variations of the same fly.
Flashabou and Krystal Flash are two common brands of flash you can add to your fly.
It may seems a little weird to add something as synthetic and bold as this sparkly stuff but the fish don’t seem to mind.
You will be imitating air bubbles and similar glaring irregularities in the water. We are usually tying these on nymphs so the fish won’t have a lot of time to verify they are plastic.
Play around with adding flash and testing on the river.
Your Fly Tying Action Item of the Week
Watch video #7 and tie the Pheasant tail before moving on:
Follow the step by step video to tie your first nymph. Click here if you have a major hangup so I can coach you through.
Fly Materials for Next Weeks Fly
Watch video #8 on materials before moving on:
Your fly materials for the soft hackle next week:
Hooks: Click on this link to get size #12 wet fly hooks.
peacock hearl: Click on this link to get peacock herl.
Soft Hackle Saddle: Click on this link to get a soft hack saddle.
(Click here to join Fly Tying Mentor for a special discounted offer and we’ll send you these materials to your door each month.)
Watch video #9 before moving on:
ACTION ITEMS FOR THE WEEK
- Watch videos #1 through #6 in this module
- Follow each video step by step to prepare for your first fly
- Watch video #6, and tie your fly as we go. Practice with and without beads.
- Note any major problems you are having.
- Tie at least 6 phaesant tails this week (1 per day)
- Send me an email here with a list of struggles you had and attach a photo of your completed phaeasant tail pattern.
- Purchase the soft hackle materials for next weeks fly pattern at the links above.
- For a free personalized coaching call, click here and I’ll help you through your struggles this week.
Click on the links below if you need to get caught up:
Click on the link below to move onto Module 4